Smart Locks

A smart lock is usually the first upgrade that changes how a home feels. You stop hunting for keys, you can let a dog walker in without copying a key, and you can confirm from your phone that the front door is actually locked.

The decision that matters most is not the brand. It is whether you replace the whole deadbolt or retrofit the one you already have — because that choice decides whether you can take the lock with you when you move, and whether your existing keys still work.

Replace the deadbolt, or retrofit it?

Full replacement locks swap out your existing deadbolt. They look cleaner, usually feel sturdier, and often pack in more entry methods: fingerprint, keypad, Apple Home Key, physical key backup. The trade-off is installation — most need a screwdriver and about twenty minutes, and you need to confirm your door's backset and bore hole match the lock's spec.

Retrofit locks clamp over the thumb-turn on the inside of your existing deadbolt. Your current keys keep working, your landlord's keys keep working, and you can unscrew it and take it to your next apartment. You give up some smoothness, and the outside of the door looks exactly as it did before.

If you rent, retrofit is the safer default. If you own the place and want the cleanest result, replace.

Entry methods, ranked by how often people actually use them

• Auto-unlock (geofencing): the lock opens as you walk up. Delightful when it works, irritating when it triggers from the couch. Test it for a week before you trust it.
• Fingerprint: fast and genuinely convenient, but cold or wet fingers can fail. Keep a backup method enabled.
• Keypad code: the best method for guests, cleaners and contractors because you can create a code that expires.
• Phone app / Apple Home Key: useful for remote unlocking and for checking status. Apple Home Key in Wallet works even when your phone is nearly dead, which is why iPhone owners tend to like it.
• Physical key: the one that still works when the batteries die. Do not buy a lock without it.

Batteries, hubs and what happens on day 401

Every smart lock runs on batteries, and every smart lock will eventually warn you about them. Two things reduce that anxiety: a lock that reports battery level to your app, and a lock that still opens with a physical key when the batteries are flat.

Network design matters too. Wi-Fi locks talk directly to your router, which is simple but power-hungry. Zigbee, Thread and Bluetooth locks use far less power but often need a hub, a border router, or a phone nearby for remote access. If you already own a hub, buy into it. If you own nothing, buy a Wi-Fi or Matter-over-Thread lock and skip a generation of dongles.

Rule of thumb: a lock that needs a hub you do not own is not a $100 purchase. It is a purchase plus a hub plus an afternoon.

Products mentioned in this guide

Products referenced in this guide, shown with the manufacturer's own photography. We do not publish prices or star ratings — both change faster than any article can be kept accurate.

Frequently asked questions

Note: Compatibility and feature details on this page come from manufacturer documentation and published specifications at the time of writing. Support changes with firmware, so confirm the current details with the manufacturer before you buy.